![]() ![]() ![]() As a result, I am thinking a new router will be needed but I am at a loss to know what I am looking for: Plunge or fixed? Is there a model that allows the collet to extend beyond router base? Should I be thinking of purchasing a router lift instead of a new router? Or what?ĭo you have any suggestions? Can you identify other options I can or should consider? – Paul D. According to my (admittedly) questionable measuring skills, I think I would need a router bit shank at least 1&1/2 inches long with the cutting bit above that, if I want to be able to adjust bit height while using my existing router in the table. The table thickness the bit must overcome is 1/2 inch before the bit rises above the table top. I removed the plastic router base and attached the router frame (sans base) using the same three screws and the threaded table inserts with minimal effect (maybe 1/4 inch). However, once attached, the bit cannot be raised high enough to permit use. My Craftsman router can be attached to the table using three screws through the base and the threaded inserts in the bottom of the table. The recessed opening where a router base can be attached creates the problem. There are two aluminum 1-3/4 x 1-3/4 angle bars underneath, about 1/2 inch off the forward and back sides of the table and a recessed 1-inch T-track that runs side to side, situated three inches back from the front edge. The table is 31-1/2 inches side to side by 18 inches front to back by 3/4 inches thick. It was still in its original box, all of the various parts and pieces were still wrapped in their plastic bags, and it was a larger table size than the Craftsman router table in my small shop. At a recent garage sale, I purchased a Wolfcraft router table. ![]()
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